The "culinization" of Park Slope's 5th Avenue continues apace. What was once a dingy convenience store is now a sophisticated bistro, the Stone Park Cafe.
Lately, I've been feeling nostalgic for Park Slope (my old neighborhood), so I met a friend for dinner tonight at this wonderful brand new restaurant. It was only the cafe's second night of being open to the public, but the smooth service was that of a veteran restaurant.
My friend and I began with the rich, creamy baked polenta, which we dubbed the "macaroni and cheese" of polenta appetizers. It harbored little gems of roasted garlic cloves, mushrooms and tomatoes, and was topped with a bubbling, slightly browned, thick layer of Fontina. Good to the last spoonful!
Other appetizers on the menu included pan-seared bluefish cakes, a quesadilla, crab-stuffed shrimp, and spareribs. An octopus salad special, which was described as "between an appetizer and an entree", was decidedly in the small appetizer category. However, it was quite delicious: the tentacles of tender grilled octopus, served on heirloom tomato slices, were liberally spiced with black peppercorns and lightly dressed with lemon vinaigrette. I was still rather hungry after the salad, and wondered if I should have ordered the pan-seared halibut.
My friend reveled in her "Newport steak sandwich." The thick white bread was sufficiently sturdy for the very tender meat, which was draped with caramelized onions. Melted Vermont cheddar provided an extra tasty detail.
Among the desserts were a lemon cake with fresh berries and honeyed goat cheese, a chocolate brioche pudding with whiskey ice cream, and a peach-blueberry cobbler. We opted for the truly amazing double chocolate souffle. The souffle was cooked to order and was worth the wait. I cannot even describe how chocolatey it was; I can only tell you that it was made of dark chocolate with an 80% cocoa content!
Prices were very reasonable; the steak sandwich was $11 and our bottle of red wine was $19. I have high hopes for the restaurant's maintaining its winning formula of creative, high-quality food at Brooklyn prices.
Now I have yet another reason to visit my old neighborhood!
Stone Park Cafe: 324 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 369-0082.
Saturday, September 25, 2004
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1 comment:
I have known Josh (one of the owners) from his days as a manager at Tribeca Grill. Quite a few guys (and girls) whose careers I have followed are now in Brooklyn. I never leave Manhattan, however because of your review, there is now no excuse for me not to visit your old neighborhood!
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